Long Beach Island Surf

        There are many reasons why someone should learn to surf. Not only is the sport great exercise, but riding a wave is a totally unique experience. It is something surfers fully understand and and outsiders will never fully grasp. Surfing connects the surfer to the energy of the ocean. It connects the surfer to the storm that produced that energy in terms of waves and swell. When you surf, you are riding the energy from a storm that generated swell and waves in a far away place. To most surfers, surfing is a zen experience that takes over the surfer when riding a wave and connecting with the ocean. That thrill of riding the wave keeps many surfers hooked for life. People may think other sports are comparable to surfing. Other board sports ride boards similar in shape to surfing, but do not have the same feel as that of riding a surfboard on a wave. When a surfer rides a wave, the wave is in existence for a single moment in time. Other board sports focus on riding permanent structures like snow or concrete allowing repetition to get better. In contrast, surfing demands dedication and commitment to improve as repetition is not as possible in the ocean with each wave being a unique experience.

        Learning to surf is a difficult task. A lesson from a professional instructor is highly recommended for starters. Often times, a friend may take someone surfing for their first time. Unless the friend is qualified and is ready to devote time and energy to surf instruction, there is a good chance the beginning surfer will not catch a wave. If you decide to sign up for a lesson from a qualified surf instructor, you should be able to stand up on at least a few waves on the first day out surfing. Following that day, surfing requires a whole lot of work to master but everyday in the water is a great and enjoyable learning experience.

        As you progress and get better at surfing, the reward is huge. My first time out surfing was a significant experience. As you improve as a surfer, you get more out of the sport. Surfing waves is a feeling and rush similar to no other for the expert surfer just the same as the beginning surfer. As a beginner, stick to smaller waves and build your skills. Getting into the larger waves is only a way to get hurt. If the wave looks difficult, it usually is above your skill level. Take your time learning and make certain you understand proper surf etiquette before venturing out to a crowded surf break where more advanced surfers are in the surf lineup. Surfing is a very rewarding sport to those that learn correct technique and surf etiquette. Get out there and give it a try.

        So, you've decided that it's time to have a shot at this surfing caper. How hard can it be, right? But your pretty short on time, in fact your here for a week on holidays and by the end of your time, you want to surf as good as that Kelly Slater fella. You've booked in for some surfing lessons and you're getting ready for your first surf lesson. Here's what you can expect from your next couple of hours.

1. Register, sign your waiver form, and grab some surfing gear. - Most surf schools will expect you to sign a waiver form that says you agree that surfing can be a dangerous activity and in the event that you get hurt you promise not to sue the pants off the school, or something to that effect.The surf school will fit you out with the appropriate gear depending on where you are taking the lesson and in what season. This could include a full wetsuit or just a rash shirt depending on the conditions. Next you will be measured up for an appropriate surf board. Surf schools generally use soft surfboards for lessons. These soft surf boards are a lot safer than regular surfboards due to the fact that they are, well, soft. Covered in foam with plastic fins.
2. Meet your instructor, pick your surf break, and warm up exercises. - If you haven't already, next you will meet your surfing instructor. He or she will be easy to pick, generally they are the local surfer dude, nice sun tan, lean and fit looking with eyes hanging out of their head due to the unforgiving salt water and bright sunlight. Your instructor will have a nice safe section of the beach picked out for you and your fellow surfers. Once you get to the location the instructor will lead your group through a series of warm up exercises. These exercises are very important. Like any sport you place a lot of stress on the body when you go surfing for the first time. Your first surf lesson will involve lots of knocks, falls and use of muscles you never knew you had. The very least you can do is attempt to wake those muscles up before giving them a hiding.
3. Learn the skills on the dry sand first. - Now the fun starts. Put your surfboard on the sand and lay on it. Now pretend to paddle. Yeah, yeah of cause you look like a goose, but follow your instructor and you will be thankful when you finally get to the water. At this point, the surfing instructor will lead you through simple techniques that will give you the best chance of going home a surfer. Pay close attention, these techniques really are what makes the difference in your surf lesson.
4. Drown!! Well we hope not, anyway. - Its time to get wet, and find out just how easy surfing really is. During your first surf lesson your instructor won't take you out too far. Usually you will stand in about waist depth water and catch the small white water waves. These are the best waves to practice your technique on. If you listen closely to your instructor you should be able to stand up by the end of your first surfing lesson. Now your surfing, look out Kelly.
5. Dry off, return the gear, and head home with grin from ear to ear. - Now that your surf lesson is complete, head back to the surf school with your instructor. Return all your gear and dry off. Hopefully your day has been a ripping success and you will return for another surf lesson soon. Are your arms and shoulders sore? Told you, muscles you never new you had. Good work, hope you had fun.

        Can There be a Cooler Sport than Surfing? There is no doubt that the coolest sport on earth, is surfing. It is a passion, a way of life and state of mind. It is for those who want to live a natural uninhibited life that revolves around the sun, sand, sea, surf and your surfboard. The very first time you ride a wave; you will know why surfing is here to stay and why it is the fastest growing sport worldwide. Taking your longboard or short board out on the ocean provides you with an opportunity to challenge the elements and nature itself, although you know in reality that it can only really be conquered for a moment. This is what keeps you coming back for more. Surfing is cool, exciting, challenging and fun.

Walls of Green and Blue
Tumbling down moving walls of green and blue water and being able to manoeuvre your board left or right and up or down is a sensation similar to skiing or flying. Surfing differs in that you are not the only thing moving because the force (the swell) is also moving. That is until you are dumped in the surf (a wipe-out), which is the moment a particular ride on the waves comes to an end. Surfing gives you the freedom to track and ride the perfect wave, to have surfing lessons and develop your skills to their peak. Independence to take risks, fail and rise again. The life of a surfer has a significant rhythm and beat to it, which comes from the rhythm of the surf and of the wild, motivating music he listens to.

Hang Five Hot-Dogger
Surfers have their own cool language with words such as, hang five (putting five toes over the nose of your surfboard), curl (the break of a wave), pearls, wipe-out and hot-dogger (red hot surfer), which may all seem like double Dutch to the non surfer. However for the surfer, it's his talk, he understands it and lives it. The dream of surfing inspires lifestyles, journeys and freedom, but you need more than the right surfing gear in order to exercise this freedom wisely, especially if you are a novice and planning a surfing holiday. The surfer needs to have plenty of training from a surf-pro or good surfing school and needs to be fit. Unless you are fit, you will be unable to meet the challenges or earn the right to this freedom.

Challenge Your Ego
The cool image of surfing is heavily promoted, but it takes more than buying the best equipment, surf gear and surf clothing before you can call yourself a surfer. Waves can be chaotic and currents and wind direction can change without warning. Knowing how a wave will break needs experience and you will find it easier if you keep fit, take proper surfing lessons and have a surf buddy. Surfing will challenge your ego and character and you are unlikely to have a beach to call your own so that you can surf solo. Consequently you will find that you have to follow surf etiquette when you share the ocean and this takes a degree of will power. However, as you ride the perfect wave under a clear blue sky, you will know why the coolest sport on earth is surfing!